2000 Chevrolet Silverado bulb sizes

I found the website below sorta on accident. It’s useful information though. I haven’t verified that every bulb listed is the correct one.

http://www.lightsfor.com/chevrolet-silverado-2000-2011-light-bulb-size/

Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9006 or 9006 HID Upgrade Kit

High Beam Headlamp Light Bulb Size: 9005 or 9005 HID Upgrade Kit

Parking Light Bulb Size: 3157A

Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 3157A

Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 1157 or 3157LL

Tail Light Bulb Size: 1157 or 3157LL

Stop Light Bulb Size: 1157 or 3157LL

High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: 921

Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: 880

License Plate Light Bulb Size: 194 or 67/97

Back Up Light Bulb Size: 1156 or 1156 or 3156

Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 3157A

Rear Sidemarker Light Bulb Size: PC195

Ash Tray Light Bulb Size: 194

Glove Box Light Bulb Size: 194

Map Light Bulb Size: 168 or 211-2

Dome Light Bulb Size: 211-2

Step/Courtesy Light Bulb Size: 1003 or 211-2 or 74

Trunk/Cargo Area Light Bulb Size: 912

Under Hood Light Bulb Size: 89 or 93

Instrument-General Light Bulb Size: 161 or 194 or 74

Check Engine Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74

Hi-Beam Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74

Seat Belt Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74

Brake Warning Light Bulb Size: 74

Automatic Transmission Indicator Light Bulb Size: 161

Directional Signal Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74

Daytime Running Light Bulb Size: 4114LL

4 Headlight mod (99-02 only)

This modification is possible on most years. Basically, the way stock headlights work is when you click on the high beams, the low beams click off. Like this:

Low beam:
Yellow wire – at resting state “off” is 12V+, drops to ground when turned “on”
Orange wire – remains at 12V+ constantly

High beam:
Purple wire – at rest “off” is 12V+, drops to ground when turned “on”
Orange wire – remains at 12V+ constantly

I live out in the country and having the ability to have all four lights on in the “high” mode would be awesome. All too often I see deer just dying to throw themselves at my truck. If I could light up a lonely road, maybe I could anticipate it better.

I googled how to do this on my truck and this is what I found out.

1. Open hood

2. Remove brace from firewall to Driver’s side fender.

3. Remove top of Circuit panel.

4. Unhook the snaps from the passenger and drivers side of the cover.

5. Roll entire circuit board over towards the passenger side.

6. Locate the Grey connector. (There is only one)

7. At location D3 (3rd down 4th to the right) is a light gauge yellow wire. It is the only yellow wire in this row.

8. Tap this wire and ground it to the Light ground on the firewall. Follow the lead from the Hood mounted light, and you will find it …just to the left of the Master Cylinder.

9. Put your stuff back together.

I found the information here:
Quad Headlights Mod

This sounds simple enough. While I have the headlight assemblies out for the Euro upgrade, I plan on making this mod.

DDM HID headlight upgrade

Since I’m going to all the trouble of replacing my headlights with the European versions, I figured I would upgrade to HID lights while I have them apart.

What are HID lights?

High-intensity discharge (HID) headlamps produce light with an electric arc rather than a glowing filament. The high intensity of the arc comes from metallic salts that are vapourised within the arc chamber. These lamps are formally known as gas-discharge burners, and produce more light for a given level of power consumption than ordinary tungsten and tungsten-halogen bulbs.

Automotive HID lamps are commonly called “xenon headlamps”, though they are actually metal halide lamps that contain xenon gas. The xenon gas allows the lamps to produce minimally adequate light immediately upon powerup, and accelerates the lamps’ run-up time. If argon were used instead, as is commonly done in street lights and other stationary metal halide lamp applications, it would take several minutes for the lamps to reach their full output.

My European headlight parts finally arrived! (Plus some other parts too!)

I ordered all the parts I needed to complete the swap over to the European adjustable headlights. Earlier I had came across a fella that was selling the headlight assemblies, brackets, and motors.

I did some research, (really tough research) and found all the missing part numbers I needed to swap for a factory style setup. Since I was ordering factory parts from the general, I decided that I would go ahead and order some of the things I needed to swap in the 4L80E and NP149.

I had actually ran into a problem that I hadn’t even considered. When my list was complete with all the obscure part numbers I needed, I tried to order the parts online. The first place I tried cancelled my order because I didn’t have the correct VIN number.

Apparently you’re not supposed to order these parts unless you actually have a European vehicle. I don’t see why it would be a problem. Maybe it’s a liability thing?

So I tried ordering the parts from a different online seller. We went a few rounds, but they finally sent me the correct parts after I told them that I was 100% sure the part numbers were correct. They told me that with the European parts, I would not be able to return them.

So I’m not sure if I got lucky and got my parts, or if there is a rule that GM will not sell overseas parts for domestic vehicles. I also looked into the legality of the headlights and Oregon recommends them.

Below are the pictures of the parts I ordered.

First up, here’s a pic of the pocket that goes where the push button 4WD selectors are. I’ll be removing the buttons because I’m putting in the AWD transfer case, it’s complete automatic in nature.

4L80E information, swap information, and diagrams

Below are some exploded diagrams illustrating the various parts and functions concerning the 4L80E.
(Some of these images are oversized. Due to the limitations of this blog theme, they are being cut off. If you would like to view the entire image, simply click on the picture and they will open up through my photobucket account.)

I finally found a NP149 transfer case.

I’ve been looking for a NP149 transfer case to swap into my Silverado. The NP149 came in Silverado SS’s, Denali’s and Escalade’s. It’s certainly not rare, but is somewhat uncommon.

Here are some pictures of the transfer case.

Yeah, so I powdercoated my wheels…

Once I decided that I was going to go ahead and powdercoat my wheels, I posted a thread on performancetrucks.net asking for advice.

What powder should I go with? Gloss black? Semi-gloss? Satin? I googled it to see what others had done. Coincidentally, I happen to like the look of the Plasti dip.

Plasti Dip your wheels. Really?

Since I finally found the wheels I’ve been looking for I decided I wanted to have them powdercoated. I’ve got a black truck this time around, and eventually I’d like to completely black it out.

Before I commit to the black, I decided to try something I’ve read about online. I honestly didn’t think it would turn out as good as it did. I didn’t even do that good of a job prepping them.

At long last… I finally found my Centerlines!

I bought my truck a year and a half ago. Ever since I bought it, I’ve been looking for a particular set of wheels.

Here is a pic of my old Silverado. I found the wheels that are on it on Craigslist back then. I found them on accident actually.

In a way, this truck is my inspiration for my current build.

LS6 camshaft and valve springs. CompCams pushrods.

I want to upgrade the camshaft to compliment my procharger. There are an infinite amount of possibilities.

You could choose from many, many different grinds from the various aftermarket companies. Or, you could have a custom grind made.

Some people swear that having a cam made specifically for your application is the only way to go. To some degree they’re probably right. It’s also the most expensive way to go.

Here are my stock cam specs.

5.3L
190/191 int/exh @ 0.05″ duration
0.466″ / 0.457″ int/exh lift
114 LSA

Below are the Z06 (LS6) cam specs.

2001 LS6 cam
207/217 int/exh @ 0.05″ duration
0.525″ / 0.525″ int/exh lift
116 LSA

2002+ LS6 cam
204/218 int/exh @ 0.05″ duration
0.551″ / 0.547″ int/exh lift
117.5 LSA

The cam I bought second hand is a 2002+ model. At first I bought the 2001 unintentionally. I hadn’t realized there were different camshaft specifications between the various years of the Corvette Z06. So after I found out I had the 2001 camshaft, I was on the lookout for a 2002+ model. Luckily, I was able to sell the 2001 for what I paid for it.

Here are some pics of my Z06 camshaft. You can identify this by the 5308 number on the end.