2000 Chevrolet Silverado bulb sizes
I found the website below sorta on accident. It’s useful information though. I haven’t verified that every bulb listed is the correct one.
http://www.lightsfor.com/chevrolet-silverado-2000-2011-light-bulb-size/
Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9006 or 9006 HID Upgrade Kit
High Beam Headlamp Light Bulb Size: 9005 or 9005 HID Upgrade Kit
Parking Light Bulb Size: 3157A
Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 3157A
Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 1157 or 3157LL
Tail Light Bulb Size: 1157 or 3157LL
Stop Light Bulb Size: 1157 or 3157LL
High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: 921
Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: 880
License Plate Light Bulb Size: 194 or 67/97
Back Up Light Bulb Size: 1156 or 1156 or 3156
Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 3157A
Rear Sidemarker Light Bulb Size: PC195
Ash Tray Light Bulb Size: 194
Glove Box Light Bulb Size: 194
Map Light Bulb Size: 168 or 211-2
Dome Light Bulb Size: 211-2
Step/Courtesy Light Bulb Size: 1003 or 211-2 or 74
Trunk/Cargo Area Light Bulb Size: 912
Under Hood Light Bulb Size: 89 or 93
Instrument-General Light Bulb Size: 161 or 194 or 74
Check Engine Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74
Hi-Beam Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74
Seat Belt Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74
Brake Warning Light Bulb Size: 74
Automatic Transmission Indicator Light Bulb Size: 161
Directional Signal Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74
Daytime Running Light Bulb Size: 4114LL
4 Headlight mod (99-02 only)
This modification is possible on most years. Basically, the way stock headlights work is when you click on the high beams, the low beams click off. Like this:
Low beam:
Yellow wire – at resting state “off” is 12V+, drops to ground when turned “on”
Orange wire – remains at 12V+ constantly
High beam:
Purple wire – at rest “off” is 12V+, drops to ground when turned “on”
Orange wire – remains at 12V+ constantly
I live out in the country and having the ability to have all four lights on in the “high” mode would be awesome. All too often I see deer just dying to throw themselves at my truck. If I could light up a lonely road, maybe I could anticipate it better.
I googled how to do this on my truck and this is what I found out.
1. Open hood
2. Remove brace from firewall to Driver’s side fender.
3. Remove top of Circuit panel.
4. Unhook the snaps from the passenger and drivers side of the cover.
5. Roll entire circuit board over towards the passenger side.
6. Locate the Grey connector. (There is only one)
7. At location D3 (3rd down 4th to the right) is a light gauge yellow wire. It is the only yellow wire in this row.
8. Tap this wire and ground it to the Light ground on the firewall. Follow the lead from the Hood mounted light, and you will find it …just to the left of the Master Cylinder.
9. Put your stuff back together.
I found the information here:
Quad Headlights Mod
This sounds simple enough. While I have the headlight assemblies out for the Euro upgrade, I plan on making this mod.
DDM HID headlight upgrade
Since I’m going to all the trouble of replacing my headlights with the European versions, I figured I would upgrade to HID lights while I have them apart.
What are HID lights?
High-intensity discharge (HID) headlamps produce light with an electric arc rather than a glowing filament. The high intensity of the arc comes from metallic salts that are vapourised within the arc chamber. These lamps are formally known as gas-discharge burners, and produce more light for a given level of power consumption than ordinary tungsten and tungsten-halogen bulbs.
Automotive HID lamps are commonly called “xenon headlamps”, though they are actually metal halide lamps that contain xenon gas. The xenon gas allows the lamps to produce minimally adequate light immediately upon powerup, and accelerates the lamps’ run-up time. If argon were used instead, as is commonly done in street lights and other stationary metal halide lamp applications, it would take several minutes for the lamps to reach their full output.
My European headlight parts finally arrived! (Plus some other parts too!)
I ordered all the parts I needed to complete the swap over to the European adjustable headlights. Earlier I had came across a fella that was selling the headlight assemblies, brackets, and motors.
I did some research, (really tough research) and found all the missing part numbers I needed to swap for a factory style setup. Since I was ordering factory parts from the general, I decided that I would go ahead and order some of the things I needed to swap in the 4L80E and NP149.
I had actually ran into a problem that I hadn’t even considered. When my list was complete with all the obscure part numbers I needed, I tried to order the parts online. The first place I tried cancelled my order because I didn’t have the correct VIN number.
Apparently you’re not supposed to order these parts unless you actually have a European vehicle. I don’t see why it would be a problem. Maybe it’s a liability thing?
So I tried ordering the parts from a different online seller. We went a few rounds, but they finally sent me the correct parts after I told them that I was 100% sure the part numbers were correct. They told me that with the European parts, I would not be able to return them.
So I’m not sure if I got lucky and got my parts, or if there is a rule that GM will not sell overseas parts for domestic vehicles. I also looked into the legality of the headlights and Oregon recommends them.
Below are the pictures of the parts I ordered.
First up, here’s a pic of the pocket that goes where the push button 4WD selectors are. I’ll be removing the buttons because I’m putting in the AWD transfer case, it’s complete automatic in nature.
4L80E information, swap information, and diagrams
Below are some exploded diagrams illustrating the various parts and functions concerning the 4L80E.
(Some of these images are oversized. Due to the limitations of this blog theme, they are being cut off. If you would like to view the entire image, simply click on the picture and they will open up through my photobucket account.)
Project "Charlie Murphy" 